posted by James
Last night the sun set on dry scrub east of El Paso: the
American West.
And this morning the sun rose just out of Houston on cypress swamp,
crape myrtle, and Spanish moss: the American South.
At a stop in Beaumont, I detrained and got the first blast of
Southern humidity that I've felt since last August. From here to
Orlando the land is wet and green, the air wet and warm, and the
towns are frequent. I see a Confederate flag flying from a
wood-frame house.
We disembarked at Houston to try some Texas Bluebell ice-cream: it
lives up to its reputation.
The train's (lack of) speed leaves time to mull things over. It
took over an hour to get out of the Los Angeles metro area; several
hours to pass Palm Springs. Thick city gives way to suburbs, which
give way to mountains and desert, and thoughts about leaving are as
gradual as the departure itself.
Arizona went by in darkness, and at morning light we entered New
Mexico. El Paso by lunchtime.
Of the seventy-eight hour train ride, at least twenty-four were
spent passing through Texas (having crossed the Sabine river, we're
now straddling Louisiana's bayou). It's a big state and a beautiful
one. San Antonio, sadly, went by after midnight.
Train food is superb.
At lunch, while the train was stopped in El Paso for repairs, we
chatted with a lady from Tyler and another from Houston. It was
refreshing to hear that thick Southern accent again, and my own
drawl returned with gusto. We talked about sweet tea and cattle
farming.
It's rumored that we'll have a very long layover in New Orleans--
long enough to visit the French Quarter.
After a year in Los Angeles, I'd forgotten what it means for the
earth to be green. Now I feel as though I'd never left the South.
California already seems distant: a vivid but preposterous dream
that no lucid person would believe. Just try describing Los
Angeles. It sounds absurd, frighteningly possible but as far-out as
a Philip K. Dick dystopia.
Necessary music as one crosses Texas:
"All my exes live in Texas" sung by George Strait
All my exes live in Texas.
Texas is the place I really long to be.
All my exes live in Texas--
That's why I hang my hat in Tennessee."
"Folsom prison blues" sung by Johnny Cash
I hear the train a-comin.
It's rollin round the bend,
And I ain't seen the sunshine since
I dont know when.
I'm stuck in Folsom Prison
And time keeps draggin on,
But that train keeps a-rollin
On down to San Anton.
When I was just a baby
My mother told me, "Son,
Always be a good boy.
Don't ever play with guns."
But I shot a man in Reno
Just to watwch him die.
When I hear that whistle blowin
I hang my head and cry.
I bet there's rich folks eatin
In a fancy dinin car.
They're probably drinkin coffee
And smokin big cigars.
well I know I had it comin.
I know I can't be free,
But those peopel keep a movin,
And that's what tortures me.
Well, if they freed me from this prison,
If that railroad train was mine,
I bet I'd move it on a little farther down the line.
Far from Folsom prison:
That's where I want to stay,
And I'd let that lonesome whistle
Blow my blues away.
"Streets of Laredo," sung by Johnny Cash
"Down in Texas," sung by the Allman Brothers Band
We're now crossing Lake Charles. Much of this voyage has
parallelled Interstate 10, and will continue to do so all the way
to Jacksonville, FL.




